Design Resource
Kase Seere and Jewellery of Yakshagaana
The Making of Costumes and Jewellery
by
Sari Weaving
The process followed for weaving of sari includes
• Dyeing
• Spinning
• Sizing
• Weaving
Dyeing Process:
The process starts by dyeing cotton yarn. Pure white cotton yarn is coloured by putting it into the colour dye bath. Traditionally, three colours are used in the dyeing process to colour the cotton i.e., red, yellow and black. The yarn is boiled at a high temperature in the dye bath for more than 30 minutes. Once the yarn absorbs even colour, it is taken out from the container and dried under shade to avoid colour fading. After colouring, the yarn is sent to the spinning process.
Spinning Process:
The spinning is done by using Charkha (the spinning wheel). After colouring, the yarn is spun to make spindles. These spindles are used in the weaving process by inserting them in a fly-shuttle to act as weft threads. Red and yellow colour threads are spun separately to prepare spindles. The artisan uses these red and yellow spindles as per the requirement to create check patterns.
Sizing Process:
After preparing the length of the warp which can make three saris at a time, It is loaded onto the loom for weaving. The length of the warp (27 meters approximately) is stretched and connected between two beams. One end in the weaver's side (Take-up beam) and the other end is far from the weaver (Let-off beam). Breakages and entangles in the warp are cleared and knotted. Warp threads are coated with starch made of Farina (Maida powder and water) to make the warp threads stiff, shine and separate. Once starching is over, the warp threads are slightly warmed by giving the heat of firewood. This process helps to make threads strong and ensures easy weaving. Care is taken so that the fire does not catch the threads.
Weaving Process:
Weaving is done on the frame loom. Warp threads and weft threads are interwoven by processing weft with fly-shuttle. The shuttle passes through the openings of the warp shed and interweaves with warp threads. Thus weave is formed and the woven cloth is wound onto the take-up beam. A traditional check pattern is obtained as the warp threads are arranged in an alternate bunch of red and yellow coloured threads during the sizing process. Kase Seere for Yakshagaana is woven only in Udupi by skilled and experienced artisans to maintain traditional aspects intact.
